Tag: Recycle

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This article discusses how I made two Warhammer 40k buildings out of paper packaging materials. I used a pair of this material to make Imperial Guard Command Posts. These 40k terrain pieces came out awesome and are perfect Warhammer scenery for Planetstrike. My plan is to use these 40k buildings for Planetstrike games as a command centre stratagem or bastions. The command centre stratagem gives counter-counter attack to friendly units within 6″. I may also use it as a small bastion. And I don’t see any reason you couldn’t use it as both, of course. However, I’m not sure these work as Warhammer terrain for Cities of Death. They just don’t have the right look to be part of a ruined cityscape. But, I guess they could work as pre-fabbed bunkers hastily constructed in a long contested ruined hive amongst trenches and piles of rubble.

The two command posts were fun to build and really inexpensive (probably less than $10 combined). They are a great 40k terrain project. While this article is focused on my success with this project, the general approach can be used to create a myriad of wonderful Warhammer scenery pieces.

40k Scenery Design

There are a few ways to go about making 40k scenery. You can buy readymade Wargames terrain. You can make kits as shown in their directions – Games Workshop has got several great ones. Or you can bash the kits, modifying them from within the parts of the kits, combining kits, or fabricating some of your own additions. Another option is to go to your bits box and make something up. Just going through the box and laying out stuff can be very inspiring.

My favorite items in my bits box are molded paper or Styrofoam packing forms – the kind that come in the various household appliances and electronics we buy. Some of these look great just the way they come and you can see right away what you can do with them; others are a bit more challenging and lend themselves to even greater creativity. I don’t even remember what items most of these things packaged anymore.

Once you’ve chosen something, you might consider doing some concept drawings to get an idea of what you want to make. Many people are intimidated by this step – don’t be. The sketch is for you, and you never need to show it to anybody (unless you are a budding web publisher like me). When doing the sketch, you’re really trying to achieve a few specific things. First, you’re trying to get an idea of modifications you want to make or bits you’re going to need to add to your form. You may find you’ll need to fabricate a few things from scratch. Second, you’re trying to figure out the materials you’re going to need. Finally, the sketch can help you formulate in your head your plan – it can give you ideas on how you’re going to create you Warhammer scenery project.

I knew right away when I saw these two items when going through my bin that they’d be perfect for the Imperial Guard. I’d been working on my army and reading lots of Black Library fluff on the Guard, so that’s what I wanted to do. I got out a pencil and a pen and tried some things out. This drawing told me I would need to make doors, windows, add some bits to make it authentic (Imperial architecture is fairly stylized and you need some Acquila’s and technical bits). I knew I’d need to add some Warhammer terrain elements on the base, as well.

Tools and Materials

You’re going to need a few things. Tools I used:

• Exacto knife with long blades
• Jigsaw with 20 teeth per inch (TPI) blades (a cordless jigsaw is best)
• Paint bucket
• Large and medium paint buckets
• Fine grain sand paper
• Drop cloth and news paper
• Large scale terrain brushes
• Metal ruler
• Snips
• Putty knife

For materials, I used:

• Black, tan, or earth tone primer
• Paper towels
• White wood glue (PVA glue)
• Hot glue (first time on a Warhammer scenery project)
• Super glue
• Flat or matte acrylic house paint (three shades)
• Woodland Scenics talus (large and fine grain packages) or similar gravel
• Sand
• Filler putty, Hydrocal, or something similar
• Misc bits from my terrain bits box and my 40k miniatures bitz
• Matte varnish or clear spray paint
• Hobby foliage
• Static grass, flocking, or ground foam (a variety is best)

Preparation – MDF, Trimming, Sealing

Mounting your 40k terrain pieces on some very flat, fairly resilient surface is a good idea and MDF is just the thing. You can alternatively try masonite or plywood. Either way, trace out the shape you want on the MDF with a permanent marker or pencil. If you’re cutting anything more than 1/8″ thick, you probably should cut it at a 45° angle – it should slope down from the center of what you’re cutting (write some arrows on the board if you’re prone to lapses as I am). If you’re cutting out multiple beveled bases, remembe that you’ll need a good ½” between your outlines or your bevels will overlap.

Cutting MDF should be done using a cordless jigsaw with at least 20 teeth per inch blades. Wear a dust mask and goggles, and make sure your cutting surface is stable and be mindful not to cut anything under your board. Sand the cut out shapes with finishing paper (you should still be wearing a dust mask) and it’s a good idea to put sanding sealer on it to preserve and make it hold paint better (I didn’t, but it’s still a good idea).

The molded paper shapes had a ridge of paper around the base that needed to be removed. I tried using the Dremel for that, which worked, but was dusty and hard to control. So, I just used the craft knife with a fresh, long blade. I traced the level I wanted to put windows onto the form (to put the slit for the windows at a height of 25mm) and trimmed the entrance for the door.

I choose not to mount the paper on the MDF at this time because I thought it would be easier to mount the windows and the door assembly without the MDF. In retrospect, this wouldn’t have mattered and this increased the chance of damaging my project. Moreover, I also did not seal the paper. I think sanding sealer or clear varnish would have been ideal – but, as I didn’t, I can’t be sure. In any case, this would have helped when I painted (the paper was VERY absorbent) and may have also made the 40k buildings a bit more resilient.

40k Building Windows

I wanted my windows at eye level and suitable for firing weapons from – so, I decided to do basic rectangles to look like a reinforced firing slit. About 25mm long, 10mm high, with a 3mm firing slit, mounted on the building with the window vertical center about about 25mm high. I traced that height onto the buildings and then made the windows out of matt board. Card stock would have been easier, but not as thick. Plastic board would have been a bit more expensive, but I would have had cleaner cuts.

I drew the windows onto the matt board and then used a fresh, sharp blade to cut them out. I used a metal ruler as a straight edge for the first cut and then gently passed the blade through the cut several times till I was through. This is critical – if you try to cut thick matt board all in one got, you’ll significantly increase your chance of tearing the paper AND when your knife blade pulls through at the end of the cut, it’s hard to control.

40k Building Doors

The doors were a bit harder to construct. First, I removed a 1″ square tab of paper from the molded paper. Then I had to make a template so I knew what shape I’d make out of the matt board. I wanted to have a sloping frame around the door, so measured out a trial template and then kept making modifications till it fit. This was definitely a process of trial and error — patience and persistence will be rewarded.

Once I had it right, I traced out the door frame on matt board and cut it out. I used hot glue to mount the piece to the building. This was the first time I’ve used hot glue on a Warhammer scenery project. However, I wanted something that would dry to firm hold faster than white PVC glue, wanted it to have some filling qualities, and was worried about how much glue the paper would absorb. This turned out the perfect choice for this project – even though I did get a bit of hot glue on my fingers a couple of times. SO – safety warning: the tip of the glue gun is VERY hot, don’t touch it. Safety warning 2: Melted glue is HOT – so DON’T touch it. As it’s glue, you’ll have burning hot sticky stuff on your skin and you’re not going to like the result.

This next bit of instructions gets a bit complicated without pictures. You can view my website where I’ve provided a similar tutorial that is fully illustrated.

I needed to finish the door by making a couple of triangles and a roof, and then putting the door inside of all that. Again, I cut templates out and fitted it all iteratively until it fit and then cut the pieces out of foam board. I glued these onto the door frame using the glue gun again. I did have a few mistakes, but you can just cut out more foam board or card stock and fill gaps.

I traced markers on the buildings where I wanted the windows positioned. Then I mounted them with the glue gun. Then I finally glued the buildings to the MDF, again using the glue gun. There will be significant gaps between the building and the MDF when you do this – it’ll have to be filled with putty or filler.

I wasn’t happy with the finish on the door. I wanted a cleaner look at the end of the foam board. So I traced out a frame on cartridge paper (any thick paper will work), cut them out with scissors, and glued those on with PVC glue.

Adding Warhammer 40k Details

Now comes the fun part. Pulling lots of detail pieces out of the bits box. I decided I wanted some barbed wire around the door mounted to posts. I made the posts out of sprue bits. (I documented how to make your own barbed wire in a previous EzineArticle.) I glued the posts onto the MDF with the glue gun. I also had some rocks I had made from Woodland Scenic rock molds and Hydocal years ago, and mounted them to the base. I used what I had and added other little miniatures bits – antennas, some form of electronics panel on the side of the door, a couple of lasguns. Use whatever you have available.

I used filler applied with a putty knife to blend the building onto the base. It’s OK to have some seams and gaps here – I mean, the building was placed there, so it doesn’t have to be perfect. An old forgotten fact surfaced as I did this – filler doesn’t stick well to anything that is really dry (relative humidity this time of year is 30% here). I should have sprayed a bit of water. And, I should have sealed the paper and MDF. I didn’t. Oh, well. It worked out fine, but would have been easier if I did those two simple steps.

To break up the smooth texture of the filler, I sprinkled sand on it while still wet. This was a bit of laziness and didn’t work so well. You should let the filler dry overnight, then glue sand and gravel. The filler isn’t that good at holding the sand on its own.

Once you’ve got all your stuff securely glued, it’s time to prime. For this project, I didn’t want to use black – it wouldn’t blend well with the game boards (battlescapes or whatever you want to call them) I am currently using. So, I used desert tan. I would have been better off with a darker color, but this worked fine.

Painting Warhammer Scenery

Painting 40k terrain is pretty similar to doing Warhammer miniatures – it’s just a matter of scale. You should use three colors – a base, a mid-tone, and a highlight. It will be best if these match the paint scheme you’re using on your game board. Also, I prefer to use house hold matte (flat) acrylic paints for large projects. They are durable and relatively inexpensive. You may need to thin them SLIGHTLY to make them a bit easier to use, particularly for dry brushing. But, don’t thin too much because they tend to act weird if you add too much water (I think excessive water interferes with the binder and the paint won’t stay mixed in your bucket).

Paint on your base coat with a large brush; depending on the effect you want, you may want to let some of the primer to show through. Then overcoat the mid-tone again making sure to let much of the primer and base coat show through. Finally, use a finer brush to dry brush your highlights.

Try not to paint too much of this heavy household paint on your detail areas. If desired, you can wait to glue these till later, painting them separately. This will allow you to paint Aquilas and lasguns and whatever to a much greater level of detail.

If you want, you can wash a dark tone before you do the highlight. For this project, I used Liquitex acrylics to make a brownish grey (burnt sienna and ultramarine blue) VERY thinned with water. I added just a tad of liquid soap to the water before I thinned to make the wash run better. This worked great.

Final touches

I painted the doors and windows in a different color to help them stand out. Since these are Imperial Guard 40k buildings, I went for a basic concrete color using Deneb stone, a couple shades of gray, another wash of Liquitex (I’m going to have to try that on miniatures). I may redo these at some point so that they are just a Bubonic brown highlighed with Bleached bone. I used glue and paint to put on several kinds of ground cover – Games Workshop static grass and a few different colors and textures from Woodland Scenics. I attached barbed wire with super glue. And then used plastic foliage from Michael’s to add a few exoctic shrubs and bushes. Then I finished off with a liberal coating of Purity Seal from Games Workshop. I’ve found this to not only protect my paint, but it also helps to keep all the flocking and ground foam in place.

Finished results

I am ecstatic about how well the two 40k Terrain Imperial Guard Command Posts came out. These are superb 40k buildings, and I’ll be using them on my next 40k game. Probably Dark Angels vs Tyranids again. We’ll see. And I’ll use them again and again.

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Source by Steve Goeringer

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When most people think of recycling, they imagine sorting out trash to put away plastic bottles, glass containers, and paper products with the classic triangular recycling logo. While these materials have long been the most widely recycled material, there is growing awareness of the need to consider recycling electronics as a key part of green living. In fact, an increasing number of states have banned electronic waste from landfills and are promoting electronics recycling programs.

Many home electronic devices can be recycled, including; cell phones, televisions, computer monitors, computer hard drives, keyboards, telecommunications waste, servers, circuit boards, power supplies, CD players, digital cameras and many other items. This long list of e-waste presents a new opportunity to drastically reduce the amount of waste produced by modern society in the course of everyday life. While recycling e-waste presents a great opportunity, it also poses a huge potential threat if ignored. For example, televisions with a CRT display (classic televisions) contain an average of four to eight pounds of lead. When discharged into landfills, lead from these units can be absorbed into the ground, making the soil and groundwater toxic. This process causes irreparable damage to the environment as well as to our own critical life resources.

On July 1, 2011, North Carolina became the 18th state in a union to impose some sort of ban on electronics from being disposed of in landfills. North Carolina residents now need to recycle their old televisions and computers. This prohibition covers all computer components, including; monitors, processors, laptops, printers, fax machines, scanners, mice and keyboards. The ban also covers all televisions, including; flat screen, cathode ray tube and projection televisions.

While the ban is intended to prevent citizens from throwing their e-waste in their trash, the state has no intention of attacking people for not complying with the rules. A new law will apply in landfills and entrepreneurs will be responsible for rejecting waste containing prohibited items. The enforcement of this new law presents officials with additional challenges as the motivation of landfills to comply can only be assessed on a case-by-case basis. . In addition to landfill management, taking the initiative to do the right thing; there is little stopping them from going about their business as usual.

In addition to the benefits that this new law brings to the people of North Carolina and the rest of the United States, the law represents a growing trend in public awareness and action by leaders in the country to bring Americans into a new era of ecology. responsible life. And while we are making great strides towards reversing the damage we have done over the past 50 years, other countries such as China and India are undergoing technological revolutions and will soon face the same problems that we are now looking for solutions to this country.

It is our responsibility as technology leaders to show other nations that there is a productive way to live responsible lives and that this way of living can go hand in hand with economic health and prosperity. As our recycling industry grows and contributes to the country’s economic growth, people’s eyes open to new opportunities. People are constantly given the opportunity to live a responsible life while enjoying the many benefits of a high-tech lifestyle. .

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Source by Marcus Montoya

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I am often contacted by new organizations trying to obtain grants. When I say “new” I mean brand new with zero budgets. Maybe you are one of them? You have a big deal, 501 (c) (3) status, and you have no money for further development. Many new projects believe grants are the best way to get started, and many aspiring grant writers would like to convince you of that. In my opinion, this is not the best strategy.

Often the founder does not want to be the first investment. The new nonprofit needs to show that they have some money and are using it well. For many, this may seem like an impossible task, but it is not. This is a basic fundraiser. Here are five simple suggestions:

1. Garage Clearance Sale: You probably had one as a child. This is a great way to inform the community about the formation of a new organization. Explain that all income goes back to the root cause. If you and your board members contribute, there’s a good chance you will easily reach your first $ 500 goal.

2. House party: Pull your relationships first by financing. Announce a spaghetti dinner at your home and explain how $ 10 a plate supports the mission of your new nonprofit. If you have a church connection, you can even organize an event there and receive additional congregation support after Sunday services.

3. EBay: Yes, a new nonprofit can grow fast with technology, which is just a tip. The technological resources are so abundant that I will leave this topic in a separate article. Until then, eBay is a staple step even for beginners. Explain in your sales that funds are being used to support a new nonprofit.

4. Recycling: Recycle newspapers and cans and take them to your local recycling center. You and your board members can even ask family and friends to recycle. Explain that you are happy to pick up materials from home on a schedule and that all income is going for a good purpose.

5. Board Members: We advise new nonprofit organizations to have at least six board members before starting grant funding. Founders see the boards as an inbuilt system of checks and balances to manage the money they invest in the nonprofit. Six is ??a good number. If each of your six donates $ 50 when entering the board, you will receive your first $ 300. If each of the six takes $ 25 for the next four months, your total over four months will be $ 600.

Combine these efforts and your nonprofit can start at $ 5,000-10,000 in the first four to five months of its existence. Organizations with such a small budget are good candidates for the next step: small grants from local foundations.

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Source by Laura Perdue

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Every year in the UK, more than 15 million phones are still thrown away in trash and end up in landfills. This equates to approximately 600 kg of gold and silver worth approximately £ 6 million. Only 2% of all used cell phones in the UK are properly processed. A spokesman for Umicore, a company in Belgium that runs the world’s largest cell phone processing plant, said that when 50,000 phones are recycled, just over a kilo of gold and a kilo of silver could be mined from them.

Gold is used on circuit boards in cell phones, and silicon chips are glued to it to prevent corrosion. Silver is used for soldering. Cell phones also contain small amounts of other earlier metals, including platinum. Greenpeace, the environmental group, said in a recent statement: “Mobile device recycling rates are rising but still quite low.”

Many of the largest recycling plants are located in Europe, in countries such as Belgium and Germany. Umicore, which also recycles other electronic equipment, currently extracts around six tonnes of gold a year, worth around £ 30 million. The recycling industry has recently been boosted by gold prices, reaching $ 1,000 an ounce last month for the first time in less than a year.

In Japan, manufacturers are desperate to get their old electronic products back because they desperately need materials. In the long term, we will likely see material safety as one of the main drivers of recycling in many countries around the world.

77% of Britons now own a cell phone and are gradually becoming more recycling aware. The new WEE directive forcing manufacturers to help dispose of their old products is helping to increase recycling rates. Nokia advises its customers to recycle at dedicated centers or via the Internet.

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Source by Sam Maney

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The growing concern about wasting plastic and paper bags is making many people wonder what to choose. Here are the facts.

According to the EPA, the United States uses around 100 billion plastic bags annually, and less than 2% is recycled. Virgin resin for making bags costs less than recycled resin, so recycling bags is not very profitable Most municipalities do not accept bags in their recycling programs because they can seal machines. The average family uses around 1,000 plastic bags each year. Most of them are only used once, but about 7% are reused for lining waste cans, collecting dog droppings, etc.

Plastic bags do not break down. The sun will photodegrade the bags, which means that over time the sun breaks down the plastic into smaller and smaller pieces. This is actually not good as small particles can get into the food chain, especially when bags litter the sea and are accidentally mistaken for food by wildlife. In the water, the bags look like jellyfish and are eaten, causing choking and sometimes entanglement. Millions of animals are killed by plastic bags each year. When an animal eats plastic, it cannot digest it, so the toxins in the plastic remain which humans can then ingest while eating the animal.

1000 miles off the coast of San Francisco there is a place called the Garbage Patch. It is about twice the size of Texas and can go up to 300 feet. It is almost entirely made of plastic and is caught in a so-called vortex. In fact, the water samples taken showed six parts of the plastic to one part of the plankton of marine food.

Garbage from plastic bags has been found on remote islands and has even flowed to Antarctica. The environmental risks associated with plastic bags have made them banned or taxed in more than twenty countries. The bags clogging sewer lines were blamed for the massive floods of Bangladesh in 1988 and 1998, leading to the first national ban in 2002.

Oil is needed to make plastic bags. China banned free plastic bags last summer and expects to save 34 million barrels of oil annually. Ireland has a program called PlasTax that is credited with saving 400,000 barrels of oil.

Retailers switched to plastic bags in the late 1970s because they are much cheaper than paper bags and take up less storage space. Most sellers cost a few cents for a plastic bag and up to fifteen cents for a paper bag.

Paper bags are not necessarily better for the environment. 14 million trees are needed to produce the 10 billion paper bags used in the US. Moreover, it takes much more energy to produce a paper bag than a plastic bag. However, more and more municipalities are adopting paper bags for recycling, and 20% of paper bags are recycled. The average family uses 400 paper bags a year. Although paper bags decompose, in landfills they often cannot because they lack the air and moisture needed to decompose.

One of the options making progress in the US is a reusable bag. Reusable bags only need to be used eleven times to have a positive impact on the environment. A high-quality bag can save several thousand bags in the landfill. If you have trouble remembering your bag, look for one that folds into a self-contained pocket so you can put it in your purse or pocket.

More and more people discover when they ask about paper or plastic? In fact, the answer is no. Both cause significant damage to the environment and use a lot of energy to produce. Consider the answer: Not one. I brought my own bag.

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Source by Kit Parks

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Holidays are a busy time of the year, but for those who love the garden, there’s still a lot to do in December.

Gather your autumn vegetable crops: It’s time to start harvesting vegetables from the plants sown in September and October. You can even add more vegetable crops before it gets too cold. They include artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, peas, potatoes and radishes. Note: expect them to grow more slowly than spring planted vegetables.

Plant bare-rooted fruit trees: Now is the best time to plant bare-rooted fruit and nut trees such as apricots, apples, cherries, peaches, plums, and walnuts. Find the assortment at your local kindergarten. Soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour before planting. Dig a hole large enough to hold the roots. Spread the roots out to stimulate growth. Water it thoroughly. Cover with a layer of mulch. Keep the tree moist for the first few weeks (regular rainfall is enough). Bare root trees are often cheaper than potted trees because they are delivered without a plastic container.

Pruning deciduous trees: Prune deciduous trees after leaving leaves. Don’t be afraid to prune the trees healthy, because they will have a nice bounce in spring.

Fill the bare spots on the lawn: Since winters in Southern California are mild, there is still time to plant bare spots on your lawn. If the rain is thin, you will need to water regularly.

Start your bedding pile: Rake the leaves and create a home mulch pile. Add leaves and grass clippings. Water the stack (if necessary). Turn around once a week. You will get the compost in the spring.

Remove dead flowers and branches: In winter, gardens can look a bit jagged. Stay fresh by cutting off any dead flowers, leaves and branches. Consider cutting down large trees, including pines and oaks if the limbs are weak or overgrown.

Recreate your Christmas tree: Find out in your city how and when to recycle the Christmas tree after Christmas. Remove all decorations and lights. Most recyclers accept flocked and non-flocked trees.

Extend the life of poinsettias: Keep your poinsettias in a cool place during the holidays, away from vents and fireplaces. When spring comes next year, cut off the shoots. In summer, put them outside in the shade, and in fall, bring them back home. To get the dark red leaves that poinsettias are famous for, they will have to spend half the day in complete darkness, starting in October. They will start blooming ready for the next Christmas in mid-November.

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Source by Bill Camarillo

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What’s the first thought that comes to your mind when you hear “resin garden furniture” or “plastic garden furniture”? Is the word cheap or wasted? You are not alone. But you may not know that this is the latest trend and is spreading fast.

Today’s manufacturers make resin and plastic garden furniture in such a way that it closely resembles painted wood. There are those who make their plastic Adirondack chairs and polymer resin garden furniture. This material is made of HDPE, which is a version of high-density polyethylene. It is a hard, strong and heavy plastic resin that has been cleaned and protected against UV radiation. Other manufacturers use EnviroWood, which is a synthetic wood substitute made from 100% recycled plastic bottles and containers. The plastic is steeped in UV-stabilized ink which is consistent throughout the text.

Adirondack plastic chairs and furniture are designed with comfort in mind and are durable. They are unaffected by sun, rain, snow, and even chlorine and salt water. There is no need to paint or sand garden furniture made of plastic or resin, or to use seasonal grooming treatments. It will not rot, warp, crack or chip. And since the furniture is a solid color, you can leave your plastic Adirondack chairs outside all year round as they won’t fade.

With such features for life, it’s no wonder people are sold on plastic and resin garden furniture. If you haven’t heard enough, the maintenance-free characteristic repeats itself. In addition to caring for and cleaning your furniture with soap and warm water, you can “sit back, relax and forget it,” says Poly-Wood, Inc. a mixture of bleach and water or electric washing, you can do this without affecting the color of the furniture.

Most, if not all, plastic furniture manufacturers use stainless steel hardware in their construction processes. The fittings used have high corrosion resistance, which complements the already unique character of the furniture, allowing it to be left outside all year round. The sturdy, durable construction keeps all furniture made of recycled plastic or resin on your patio or backyard. A plastic Adirondack chair weighs an average of 45 to 50 pounds. Flimsy is definitely not the right adjective to describe this piece of furniture.

And that’s not all. Plastic and resin outdoor furniture come in a variety of colors and styles. The Adirondack style is a very popular version of plastic furniture. With Adirondack plastic chairs, benches and plastic swings, you can find classic, curved or shell styles. In addition to these options, you can choose colors such as white, patina, natural, teak, green, and even vibrant colors such as flamingo, Caribbean blue, and banana.

While you can spend a little more on plastic and resin garden furniture, you will find that it is an investment worth considering. Whether you are looking for furniture to stand on a rustic seaside terrace or in a formal garden, you can find exactly what you are looking for among Adirondack’s wide range of plastic chairs and furniture.

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Source by Jennifer Akre

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What’s in your basket?

Is it the things you want to buy or the things you want to try on?

How about incorporating planet-conscious shopping into these efforts?

Payback benefits all of us and also employs people!

What’s in your basket? Recycled packaging or products?

If we all start to judge what and how we buy our goods every week; we can save our planet’s atmosphere for posterity because we initially inherited a clean planet; it is our responsibility to minimize or slowly eliminate our carbon footprint.

It is our duty to restore or, in most cases, prevent further damage to the ecological balance of nature. Support the consumption of fresh, local fruit and vegetables, served and transported in canvas shopping bags made of hemp or cotton that can be washed and recycled for reuse, or in a durable basket with a handle made by local artisans. Remember to recycle, throw glass, plastic, newspapers, rubbish or old telephone books into the trash. Thanks to this, you will be more aware of the waste of packaging and you are more likely to buy ecological products in ecological packaging.

Did you know that by changing your shopping habits at least once a week and being aware of the effects of wasting packaging, you are helping the planet? By simply introducing or adding more green ideas and more environmentally friendly shopping for green label products, you are encouraging practical environmental considerations for your planet …

What’s in your basket? Have you ever wondered how and what exactly you buy? Does it make up for less waste or more? Pay attention to what you buy most often, and more importantly, how do you get rid of the container or packaging? Is there a better way to make shopping more environmentally friendly?

Are the things you want to buy, buy, or are the things you want to try on in terms of size that have the greatest impact on your purchases?

Try a different approach to buying. Pay attention to your thought process. How about incorporating planet-conscious purchasing into these efforts? Payback benefits all of us and also employs people!

By purchasing green products that are now more accessible than ever before, there is no more excuse or reason to be seen as an afterthought or effort behind …

Have a heart: show your warm feelings for the planet: remember that it includes all your family, friends and natural resources …

Earth is already enduring cyclical changes, melting ice sheets, continents and reigns in chaos and chaos: irregular weather patterns: Earth is actively deviating from its usual axis, etc., etc.

Do your part to mitigate any extra quirks …

** Recycling, reuse, conversion and, above all, being aware of your responsibility for your own carbon footprint is showing love and respect for the planet. Try to repair devices and electronics before sending them for recycling or reuse, or before they end up in landfills. Make every effort to rearrange things that can be changed!

** Remember to buy plastic and recyclable products by doing your usual shopping and saving a few recyclable trees and raw materials at the same time!

The products we leave are staggering in landfills like crazy! Some plastics take 600 years to decompose and convert to compost: I thought you’d like to know this well-preserved fact …

Be aware of and actively participate in the protection and modernization of our clean water supply. Clean water is when clean consumers do the right things for the right reasons, with responsibility and awareness of the global impact of our actions.

Clean water is needed to feed us through the cultivation of our grains. Clean water feeds everyone who lives on our planet: there is a serious shortage of clean water in Egypt, and clean water technology is one of their major imports.

Save the life of forests and oxygen-emitting trees, we do our part through our ability to deliver electronic articles – EzineArticles are free readings that bring you closer to the facts; without unnecessary cutting down of trees …

THANK YOU for participating and reading this article!

** I like to learn from you and others, constantly passing on knowledge to me!

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Source by Lorie Ann Jermoune

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Can you make cardboard stronger, lighter and use less material, even if recycled? And if we could do it, we would have more power, but could we make some money from it, I mean profit? I wonder if it is literally impossible in the US and making money from it and prices for new cardboard or recycled cardboard will fluctuate due to the global economy and trade. Perhaps trading carbon dioxide and growing trees, as the Potlach Corporation in Oregon does, could help pull out enough to actually make a profit. Let’s talk, do we?

Is it possible? I’m not sure if they are insurmountable, actually one member of a think tank who lives in South Carolina near the forests maybe the terrain is perfect for that, growing back with fast-growing tree species and then delivering that cardboard to production centers near the big sea harbors. One think tank member noted that micro-rubber and micro-ground sawdust are already used in recycled materials, which makes them natural if the price is stable, and should be if they have been used for a long time in the recycling sector. If it makes the cardboard stronger and we can use less paper, we save on trees, and if it is lighter, the better. This is important now with all same-day, next-day deliveries, for example, Amazon shippers flying by air.

Indeed, I agree with one think tank member that hybrid cardboard would be stronger even if we implemented it in Virgin Cardboard, adding these materials at a recycling event would guarantee increased durability perhaps over several generations of his reincarnation. The tear strength would actually be better, and the rubber should help with the moisture, which is very important for nations sailing from tropical or monsoon regions – India, China, South Asia etc, wise thinking there.

The Hybrid Cardboard concept makes a lot of sense, and while this whole redesign exercise feels like a simple engineering game, much like making toothpick mini-bridges in MIT Engineering with sophomore engineering students – nevertheless – the implications for solving this problem are enormous.

Will such materials now also allow us to change the structure of the cardboard? Instead of a corrugated center with a sheet on both sides, could one eliminate one side, the inside, or reduce the weight even more, such as cutting holes in the wing rib made of aluminum?

The chemistry and process are some technical, I understand, but it doesn’t seem that hard with all the different strategies for dealing with recycling nowadays. Please think about it.

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Source by Lance Winslow

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What is Recycled Plastic? Usually it is used to make shampoo bottles, teachers are bottles, water bottles and juice bottles. It can also be used for the production of milk containers. There is no wood filler and this is because wood filler usually only letters, blisters, peel or rot. It consists of about 90 percent of the plastic used. It can be made of high-density polyethylene plastic. It usually comes in the form of solid foam that has been recycled. In the following paragraphs, we will bring you some interesting facts about this plastic lumber that has been cycled.

The pigments this lumber uses have been stabilized by ultraviolet rays. It will not go away, therefore it will take a long time. There will be no need for painting, sealing or staining. Of course, if you want special colors, this is an option though; usually comes in standard colors. Standard colors are redwood, green, black, dove gray, white, ivory and dark gray.

The textures of this plastic lumber have been created to look like wood which is nice as it is easy to maintain and clean. When wet it is as slippery as a painted deck.

After purchase, an invisible foil will remain on the surface. However, it will burn when direct sunlight falls on it for several weeks. If you want it to be non-slip, you have to ask for a knurled finish.

Recycled plastic lumber has been tested and has endured harsh weather conditions. So far, the full viability of this wood has not been known yet. This product was placed in boats and has lasted 35 years and is still running without any sign of damage.

A lot of people like this product because it doesn’t take a lot of work. As we mentioned above, there is no need for painting, caulking or staining. Overall, all you need to do to care for it is wipe it down and wash it with a garden hose.

If you come across a stain that is difficult for you to remove, simply make a 1:10 ratio of bleach and water to the surface. This way, you won’t hurt recycling wood at all. Remember that bleach itself comes in plastic bottles. If it were harmful, it wouldn’t be in plastic bottles.

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Source by David Walch